Voyeur Turkey

BODRUM

Introduction

Bodrum is the major resort and most attractive town on Turkey's Aegean Coast. The centre has been heavily developed for European tourists since it was ‘discovered' in the 1970s, but despite this, and heavy summer crowds, it retains (at least for first-time visitors) an exotic Turkish atmosphere with plenty of visual interest and excitement. The splendid Crusader Castle of St Peter is the dominant landmark in this low-rise whitewashed Mediterranean scene while traditional wooden Turkish sailing boats (gulets) grace the busy harbour.

Who goes there?

Bodrum is particularly popular with the British market, though an assortment of other western European nationalities, the occasional independent traveller moving through Turkey, young international revellers and Turks themselves on holiday, make for an interesting mix.

Where in the world?

Bodrum is on the southern end of Turkey's west (Aegean) coast. It lies 50km (30 miles) south west of Bodrum International Airport.

Beach

Despite its seaside position, Bodrum is not a beach resort. A dolmuş (minibus) service goes to the nearby sand-and-shingle beaches at Gumbet, 3km (2 miles), and Bitez, 7km (4.5 miles) away, which are renowned for their windsurfing conditions.

Beyond the beach

Bodrum is the site of the Mausoleum (Turgutreis Caddesi), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Only a few fragments now remain but curiosity alone leads many people here. More worthwhile is the Castle of St Peter (start of Dr Alim Bey Caddesi) with great sea views, an interesting Byzantine shipwreck hall and spooky dungeons. Bodrum Amphitheatre (Kibris Sehitler Caddesi/Ring Road), which once held up to 13,000, is another structure accredited to the reign of King Mausolus. Situated on the hillside overlooking the resort, it offers the classic picture postcard views over the castle and harbour.A ‘Blue Cruise' - sailing along the Turkish coastline on a beautifully crafted Turkish gulet, is an essential part of a Turkish holiday, even if it is only for a few hours. If you have a few days to spare, sign on for an extended voyage - perhaps calling at a Greek island or two en route.

Family fun

If you have young children in tow you'll probably be better off based at the beach resort of Gumbet, though this lacks the atmosphere and bustle of Bodrum.Exploring the Castle of St Peter (see above) is a must but beware that the horror exhibition in the dungeons is unsuitable for small children.

Retail therapy

Bodrum's main thoroughfare, the pedestrianised Dr Alim Bey Caddesi/Cumhuriyet Caddesi, is chock-a-block with tradesmen selling everything from beautiful Turkish carpets and local handmade crafts to ‘genuine fake' cheap Rolexes and pirated designer clothing. Between the two extremes are many small stylish cosmopolitan boutiques mixing local designs and fabrics to Western tastes.On Tuesday there is a clothes market and on Friday there is a colourful fruit and vegetables market (both at Mumtaz Gorgun Caddesi, behind the bus station).

A night on the town

Bodrum by night is Turkey's busiest town outside Istanbul; in high season the narrow streets are jam-packed with older people and locals simply strolling between cafes and shops, and young revellers of all nationalities bar hopping. ‘Bar Street' (Dr Alim Bey Caddesi/Cumhuriyet Caddesi), which runs along the seafront from the castle, is the place to come whatever your favoured style of music or type of entertainment. Fittingly the street ends at the long-established Halikarnass Disco (Cumhuriyet Caddesi), claimed to be the biggest open air night club in Europe, packing in 5,000 people a night during the season. It is famous for its laser shows and cabaret artists. At the other end of the spectrum many locals and older Turkish holidaymakers indulge themselves in meyhanes, local restaurants and bars with traditional music and dancing.

Eating out

Although all kinds of international food can be found here, including the usual standbys of Chinese, Indian and McDonalds restaurants, Turkish food is very popular. Turks and northern European visitors alike enjoy pide (Turkish pizzas) and dine in lokantas, basic restaurants serving excellent cheap local food. For a little more romance, ‘Restaurant Alley' is a particularly charming street, festooned with vines and lanterns, and featuring half a dozen traditional Turkish restaurants. Turkish musicians frequently play here.

Getting around

The centre of Bodrum is compact and can easily be covered on foot. Driving and parking in the town is very difficult. Minibuses run to the nearest beaches and neighbouring villages.

Exploring further afield

Tucked away in the bays of the Bodrum peninsula are a number of attractive villages a few minutes away by dolmuş. A favourite is sleepy Gümüşlük, which partly occupies the site of the ancient harbour city of Myndos. It has a very picturesque row of waterside restaurants which are reputed to serve the best fish in the region.The 2,000-year old picture-postcard ruins of Ephesus, the Roman capital of Asia, make up one of the world's best preserved cities from antiquity. The adjacent Selçuk Archaeological Museum is an excellent complement to the site. Ephesus is around two and a half hours driving time from Bodrum.The fairy-tale dazzling white petrified (calcified) waterfalls of Pamukkale is one of Turkey's most beautiful and spectacular natural sites. It's a three-hour drive from Bodrum. Make sure your excursion includes a swim in Cleopatra's Pool (35°C/95°F) among tumbled Classical columns and other monumental debris. Immediately adjacent to Pamukkale is the ruined city of Hierapolis, famous for its necropolis. This is one of the best preserved ancient cemeteries in the country.You can leave Turkey altogether by taking a ferry (50 minutes) for the day trip to Kos, or hydrofoil (2 hours) to Rhodes.

Splashing out

For excellent Turkish dining with a great view over the marina try the Roof Marine restaurant at the Marina Yacht Club. (Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi, Bodrum Marina).

Flying in

Bodrum International Airport (BXN)

Etiketler: air, airport, beach, Bodrum, sea, Turkey

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